Around the World in as long as it takes.

Steph had arranged to meet a friend from Ireland in Vancouver.

Ramona and Brian had both moved to Vancouver to live and they picked us up from the bus depot.

We stayed with them for a night and Brian took us around Vancouver the following day as Ramona was working.

The next day we headed out for Squamish which is in between Vancouver and Whistler. Steph and I had hired a car for a week so we drove ours whilst Ramona and Brian drove theirs.

We arrived in Squamish which was a nice little camp site (very rustic) and set up our tents for the night.

We then popped over to a pub in Squamish town itself and after a few beer wobbled back to the camp site.

Brian and Ramona were climbers so they were at Squamish to climb one of the big rocks that was there.

Steph and I aren't climbers, so the following day we said our goodbyes and they headed off for a climb, while Steph and I headed off for Kamloops.

The weather was nice and the views amazing as we whizzed through Whistler. We stopped off to see what it was like and having seen nothing but new apartment-esque buildings and German and British accents, we headed off from this tourist trap of a place!

The drive to Kamloops was nice with some nice lookouts on the way.

We popped into the Tourist Info place in Kamloops and luckily they informed us that the Hostel (that's referenced in the Lonely Planet) closed down about a year earlier (really starting to get annoyed with Lonely Planet!) and that luckily there was another one on the way up to Jasper.

They phoned and booked us in a dorm for the night, and having stopped for supplies we headed off North.

The Hostel was called the Sun Peaks Resort Hostel and the resort itself was a Ski resort (the second largest in Canada)

It was a lovely hostel (obviously kitted up for the Winter) however, lovely and friendly.

We made a chicken curry and having chatted with the manager and a few fellow hostel stayers, we hit our sacks (our dorm was empty apart from us) would highly recommend this place though!

We set off at 10am which was probably a little late for the distance we had to cover that day.

We headed towards Valemont and into the Mountains.

We stopped at some Waterfalls (think they were called Chute Falls) en route which were nice and supposedly the highest point of the salmon migration and where only the biggest Salmon could be seen jumping up the river..... we were late in the season though so no salmon... nice water falls though!

After a few more miles, Mount Robson started to appear in the distance. It was a beautiful clear day and the snow capped peak towered above us as we neared the Tourist information office in the Mount Robson National Park.

Talk about fantastic view from the office!

We checked out the walks available and since it was getting late in the day, we decided we'd best head off for Jasper.

We passed the Park Entry point and unbeknown to us... we had to pay $20 Park Entry fee.

Now this was a reoccurring theme as we progressed through the Rocky National Parks and became really annoying when you found out that not only did you have to pay to Camp and have a fire, but you also had to pay for the privilege of being there!

This was really strange as when we arrived in Jasper National park by train.... we didn't need a pass.

Seems it's a car thing, so if you're going to Jasper.... arrive by train or say at the gate you're just passing through (i.e. Not staying overnight!)

However, they do check at the Camp sites so if you're camping... make sure you've got one!

Anyway, we arrived in Jasper and drove up to the "Wilderness Lodge" up by Maligne Canyon.

The place was a couple of wood huts on the hillside... very nice, however, $20 each for a bed... no showers... no electricity... and most importantly.... no beer!

No Beer!!! What planet was this place on!

All the HI Wilderness Hostels seem to have this rule (which is stupid in my books!)

Obviously it's to stop the younger backpackers getting wrecked in the hostels overnight... however... the guy reckoned it was because it was catering to the walkers.... my erse !!!

After a long walk there's nothing better than having a cold Beer! In fact, that's what you look forwards to the most!

Anyway... the place was totally catered to Tourists and booked up by German and Brit Tourists... so we left!

We arrived and the Camp Site a bit late and the Queue was large.... about 20 Winnebago’s (big camper Vans) deep.... so we decided to come back later.

We drove up to Maligne Lake and decided to do the Walk along side the lake.

It was a beautiful evening and the Lake looks gorgeous!

On the way back into town we passed a load of cars parked along side the road.

Everyone was watching a herd of Elk and come cariboo that had wandered close to the road. It was really funny as the Large Male was protecting his Harem from a younger male roaming along the edges... however... it got funnier!

Since the large Male was in protective mode... a few tourists decided to get a bit closer for that perfect picture.... the male didn't like this and piled into the tourists and sent them scattering!!! Very funny indeed!

Rule in Canada.... they might look nice.... but they can still hurt ya! And this counts for about everything up here Including some tourists

Feckin Idiots!!!

Anyway, we arrived at the camp site a bit late... the queue was still massive.... and it was getting dark!

Steph decided to rush to the front and play the hapless Girl card... which worked and we got our site number and even got away without having to pay for a fire for the night (which was duly lit within five minutes of arriving at the camp site!)

It was a quiet night and after tea and a Horlicks we decided to hit the sack.

It was a bad nights sleep as Steph and I were still getting used to sleeping in the tent. Booked a camp ground for the tonight in Lake Louise and we headed South.

We stopped at the Athabasca Falls en route and these were quite impressive, if a little busy. There’s loads of Oldies camping in Canada in September as this is the Shoulder season and they get cheaper stuff…. So there’s lots of them about.

We popped to the Athabasca Glacier and walked up to the Toe. It was grey and fairly small which was more the pity when we saw the signs all along the valley indicating where the glacier had reached up to in previous years.

And it’s accelerating.

We watched the Glacier Buses (large buggies similar to those we were on in Churchill) parade up and down the glacier so that some oldies could walk on the thing… however… what I noticed more was that the entrance for the tours was getting closer to the edge of the glacier…. So watch this space… in a few years… they’ll have to relocate further up the hill I’m sure!

The photo says it all anyway!

Next stop was Peyto lake…. Now the colours of this lake were amazing (glacial melt or what!) It was busy as heck though (once again) as we stopped and walked up to the view point, however, a tour bus with loads of Oldies had scooted up to the top car park (for bus tours and handicapped) and so by the time we arrived… the place was mobbed!

We headed to the Camp site in Lake Louise.

First Question : Do you have a park pass….
Answer : No
Second Question : Do you want to camp tonight….
Answer : Yes
Third Question : Do you want a fire tonight…
Answer : ummm…. Well….. Yes!

That’ll be $57 please !

WHAT ???? $57 feck me !!!

To camp in a wood!

That’s 28 pounds sterling!

So after some bitching about having to pay $7 for a fire “Permit”….. how stupids that… we set up camp!

$57 bucks for a night…. I was fuming !

However… so was the fire soon enough as I was determined to use all the facilities and make the most of my “fire” permit while we were there

We popped to the supermarket and chilled by the fire for the rest of the night.

During the night a thunderstorm approached and about 2am it started to poor with rain!

We were in the middle of the trees which sort of helped, however, with lightening shooting down all around us… we decided to get up and move to the car (just in case) This worked out quite well and we slept until about 8am the following morning.

It was fairly muggy in the morning, but Steph and I had already decided to go for a hike up Lake Louise, so we set off to the lake.

We started walking on a fairly steep ascent up to towards Mount Fairview.

After a wee while, we decided to turn back as the peak towered above us (well the clouds did anyway) and it was steep going…. Very steep and in was Snowy on the peak (we could just make out!) Combined with this was the fact that the area of the hike was renowned for Grizzlies

We headed for another less stressful walk… up to St Agnes Tea Shop.

This was still quite a walk up hill, however, at the top of the walk we were rewarded with a tea shop which was reasonably priced too

We were harassed by a local Ground Squirrel though which kept trying to jump into my coffee mug…. Honest

The guy was very entertaining and as he jumped from the table towards my mug, I’d move it away and he’d fall on the floor. Then he’d wander back up and try again

We had most of the tables watching this and laughing for a while… the guy must have been a coffee hound or something

We decided to walk up to the small beehive lookout and got some great views of Lake Louise and the large Fairmount (or Sheraton… whichever) Hotel at it’s base. The colours of the lake were lovely though… however… as we returned then place was full (and I mean full!) of tourists all trying to get their picture with the lake in the background! Very Amusing!

We headed for Canmore… passing some Mountain Goats on the side of the road as we drove along… and passing by Banff (we catch it on the way back)

The Views of the surrounding Mountains were spectacular and we pulled over a few times to take piccies!

Canmore was just outside the National Park (whoopee…. So no $20 fee per night!)

We stayed at the Canadian Alpine Club Hostel (affiliated with HI) which was brilliant! Lovely place with perhaps one of the best mountain views I’ve seen (especially since the view was of some peaks called the Three sisters…. Very lovely!)

The Sunset was a bit of a damp squib though and having chatted to a couple from Manchester for a while, we hit the sack.

Today we head for Calgary (or rather Okotoks) which is where Stuart and Sheena Live.

We drove along a dirt road which took us through the mountain and to say we had some spectacular mountain views I think is an understatement.

Steph spotted this road on the map and decided we'd take the detour.

I didn't want to bother... however... it turned out to be a great call on Steph's behalf and definitely worth the detour.

These guys are pals of mine from Edinburgh and Stuart used to play the drums in the Band I was in for a few years!

We passed the “Erratic Okotok Rocks” as we entered the town (just south of Calgary) which were….hmmm…. a couple of rocks (broken at that) in the middle of a field.

We wound Stu and Sheena up about this fact

Truly Amazing and well worth the detour

Anyway, after some instructions on how to get to their house… we arrived and it was great to spend the evening with Friends who I’d not seen for years (They’d been in Canada for about 4 years now)

It was great to be in a proper bed and eat proper food for a change…. Much appreciated!

We headed off the following day back to Banff…. Stopping for a few postcards and then (much because it’s exactly like Whister) we got out of the Tourist trap!

We had a long drive ahead and we’d thought we’d be able to go hiking in Yoho National Park to the Hoodoo’s.

Unfortunately, it was closed…. Damn!

We weren’t sure why (maybe a bear in the area or something) however… we decided to head for Squalix (half way between Vancouver and Calgary) for the night. It was a long day of driving!

This was a cool Hostel to say the least!

Not too sure when we arrived as the reception was an old supply shop… bit dusty and smelly… however…. The land lady (Blair) convinced us to stay in the dorm (which were old Caboose’s)

Now a Caboose is like the carriage at the back of the train… with a sticky out bit at the top. They were really, really cool and all the original fittings were still inside them… including the chair at the top of the lookout bit on top… You could survey all and sundry from here

We walked down to the beaver dam to see the local beavers… who slapped their tails in disapproval when the dog decided to bounce in the water and try to chase them… whilst some of the other guests kayaked in the free kayak.

On their way back they did spot a black bear crossing the river over to the same side of the river as the hostel… which was amusing, however, as blair commented… that was the point of having the dog at the hostel (who was a big friendly mutt called Samson… quite appropriate!)

He was a great guy and having finished out Spaghetti Bolognese for tea (and having loads left) we decided to spice up his doggie biscuits with a bit of sauce….. which he definitely appreciated (apart from the odd chile in there!)

He was drinking out of the water bucket as we sat by the fire in the evening chatting

A great little hostel and highly recommended.

The Next day we headed for Vancouver…. Popped into the HI Hostel (having dropped the hire car off)… walked around Vancouver a bit and then hit the sack ready for the bus trip and Ferry ride the following day back over to Vancouver Island and Vistoria where we were to meet up with firstly Claudia (as she was working there) and then Joe and Myrna (our cabin mates from the Europa who’d arranged to pick us up there and sail us over to the US!)

Cool

Claudia had agreed to give us a lift so we were all up early and headed for the ferry. It was a 7:30am start so having spent an hour or so waiting in line with all the other cars we finally made it onto the ferry.

It was a pretty miserable day so the inside passage trip (supposed to be one of the most beautiful ferry journeys in the world) was a little drab, however, it was still nice as we sailed through the islands and along side small communities.

We ended up playing poker for a while (using small salt and pepper sachets that we’d borrowed from the canteen as betting chips) and 15hours later we pulled into Port Hardy on Vancouver Island.

It was fairly late so Caludia gave us a lift to the C&N Hostel, dropped us off, and having taken our shoes off to get into the place (a rule that seemed to reoccur quite a bit in Vancouver Island) we headed for an early night.

The Hostel was quite empty in the morning as most of the backpackers had rushed off early to catch the greyhound bus out of Port Hardy at 9am.

Steph and I had arranged to meet Claudia at 10am so after a coffee and a quick chat with the owner / manager (the hostel was OK but just for a night… it was clean though!) we headed off South.

For years I’d wanted to go to Telegraph Cove as I’d seen this was one of THE places in the world to see Orcas. Specifically there was a beach where they rubbed themselves on the pebbles on the shore (no one knows why they actually do this).

It was a short drive and having looked around and popper into the Whale Interpretive centre for a quick overview of the local whales and specifically the Orcas we popped to Alder Bay, where we’d arranged for a whale watching tour.

The tour was to be on a sail boat as this meant we didn’t really use engines and were more likely to get close to the Orcas.

There were also only 12 of us on board which meant there was plenty of room.

Unfortunately it wasn’t windy… so the sails were never unfurled.. however the weather did start to improve slightly and we even saw the sun a few times.

We pulled up to Robson Bight (which is a protected area of the passage) and sure enough there were orcas in the distance.

Having not got too close to them, all of a sudden one decided to head straight for us. It swam right underneath the boat and for us all was perhaps the closest we’d all gotten to an Orca.

The Captain recognized the Orca straight away as “Springer”. This is perhaps one of the most famous Orcas in Canada as it was found abandoned and near to death near Vancouver, however, having been relocated to the Passage it had been adopted by it’s Auntie, which was cool and good success story for everyone involved.

We saw plenty of other orcas and spent most of the afternoon just bobbing around watching the whales.

The Company was called Sea Smoke Whale Watching and although it was not cheap it was well worth it.

After getting back onshore intact we headed off to Port McNeil where we’d booked a small hotel room for the three of us.

The next day we headed for Fort Campbell, where it was raining, but of course.

Vancouver Island seems to have a climate very much like Ireland or the North of Scotland. i.e. if it’s not raining… it’s not normal (so to speak!)

We popped past a Classic Cars festival that was being held in the rain and then after a Starbucks, drove to Nanaimo.

The Hostel was nice, if a little impersonal (most of the residents seemed to be Hotely people staying in a cheap hotel) so we didn’t hang around.

We popped for tea to a great little Mexican called Gina’s which was a little walk away, however, well worth it as it was full (perhaps the only place we saw full the whole day) and it was full of locals (always a good sign!)

Today Claudia left for Victoria, so since we were heading for Tofino, we said our goodbyes and headed to the bus station to catch the bus.

We arrived some 5 hours later (after a nice windy road there) and checked into the C&N Backpackers. It was pretty run down, however, the manager (Rich) was great and more than made up for the haphazard setting of the hostel.

It was central however, and unlike many of the other hostels we’d been at in Canada, only had backpackers in and had character!

It was a crappy day though so we ambled around the town for a wee while, before retiring for tea and chatting with a few other backpackers in the place.

Today it was sunny… so we decided to catch the bus to Long Beach.

Unfortunately... the bus service had changed (no longer summer) so there wasn’t a bus to Long Beach… so we had to change our plans quickly whilst there was nice weather.

We stumbled on a hot springs tour which was reduced in price (from $130 to $85) so we both booked on.

It was still quite expensive for the two of us, however, it turned out to be a great little trip and well worth the money,

We boarded a little Jet boat (of sorts) and together with another 6 people we headed out through the islands off Tofino, heading North.

We spotted Bald Eagles, the odd seal every now and again and then as we headed outside the islands for a while a Grey Whale !

Brilliant…. Our first Grey Whale and one of the reasons (together with Orcas) why we’d been excited about coming to Vancouver Island!

This was included in the price and our driver hung about for 15 minutes whilst we watched and photographed this great animal.

We then motored off to the Hot Springs.

We arrived and were told we had 3 hours on the island.

It was a small walk to the Springs through rain forest and this in itself was really nice as the sun shone through the trees.

We arrived, stripped down and, carefully, tip towed through the rocks to the pools.

They were brilliant ! And Hot !!! How Hot !!!

There was a small waterfall where you could stick you whole body underneath… however being higher up the Springs… they were hotter and after about a minute or two… you had to move before you fainted from the heat !!!!

A great place and unlike any other springs we’d seen in Canada, totally natural and at the time we were there… really quite and reviving.

After two hours of soaking we headed back to the boat.

On the way back we managed to spot a sea otter playing in the seaweed right next to the boat however, no photos ! Damn !

Back at the hostel, we made some tea and chilled watching TV before Bed. A good day in all and an unexpected one! Funny how these unorganized trips turn out to be good eh ?

Today we left Tofino and having walked along the local beach, jumped on the Tofino Bus and headed for Ucluelet (or “Uccie” pronounced “You-key” as the locals call it)

We arrived at the C&N Backpackers in Uccie and it was a lovely hostel. Clean and with it’s own massive backyard with a small beach, it was a great place to spend a couple of days and chill out.

The Dorm were a bit big though, however, it was off peak season and there were only two other people in the dorm with us. The next night there was only us as they checked out that morning.

We’d decided to go for a long walk today (Steph wanting to do the Pacific Rim Trail) so having looked at the map, we decided to head North for Long Beach.

We walked up the road for a few K’s before heading into the forest for a few more and then down some steps onto the beach.

We followed the beach, heading into the forest every now and again, for about 15k’s !!! It was a long walk !! but a worthwhile one as we spotted some garter snakes on the track which were cool.

There were loads of them and they seemed to all be curled around a much larger and less colourful female….hmmmmmm.

After 5 hours constant walking …. We hit Long Beach (Finally !!!)

It’s a lovely beach with Surfers all hanging in the waves and loads of Birds and wildlife playing on the beach itself.

We checked out the Rockpools and found some colourful local rock pool life stuff They also have Purple Star fish here... Honest..... Purple !

After a wee while here, we headed to the bus stop so that we were sure we didn’t miss it back to Uccie as it was the last one that day ! Fortunately we made it…just !

Back in Uccie, we grabbed a chippie and headed back to the hostel for tea and a well deserved beer or two!

Today we headed for Vancouver from Uccie and after a few changes in the bus and having to catch a good old American (sorry Canadian) School Bus half way, we pulled onto the ferry in Nanaimo.

The weather was beautiful and the crossing flat so we sat outside all the way across and watched Vancouver as it rose along the horizon towards us.

Civilization ! finally ! Damn !

The scenery en route to prince George was beautiful, however, we’d been unlucky with the weather and most of the mountains were caped in cloud.

It was still a nice train journey (albeit it a full one) and for us a relatively short one, taking some 8 hours to get to Prince George.

We pulled into the station and walked with our rucksacks to the Hotel we’d booked online for the night (Another Internet deal)

Prince George was pleasant enough, however, there wasn’t much to do there and having been told this, we were there for the night before we boarded the train early the next morning to head to Prince Rupert.

The weather hadn’t changed much and although the train rolled up and down through gulleys and along ravines, cross massive bridges and along mountain sides, much of this was obscured until we reached closer to the coast where the weather broke and we were able to glimpse the water falls and snow capped mountains alongside the track.

The rivers and water looked clear and crisp and at 8pm (on time !!!! Shock horror !!!!) we pulled up to Prince Rupert Station where Christie (the lady owner of the hostel) picked us up and took us into town.

The Pioneer Hostel looked lovely and was very clean and we also had a double room booked for the three nights we were going to stay there. We were both grateful and after a quick lunch down by the waterfront and a lovely Sunset in one of the local pubs, we hit our sacks.

It was a bright sunny day and feeling lazy after a couple of days on the train we just wandered around Prince Rupert.

This didn't take too long so we ventured into the museum.......... didn't take that long either!!!!

It was a small museum, however, it was an interesting one and we spent a while musing over the Haida Artwork and the carvings.

Later on that evening we decided to have a barbeque and a campfire with a kiwi couple..... this ended up with the entire hostel joining us and an arranged camping trip on the Queen Charlotte Islands with the kiwi couple (steve and natalie) in a few days!

The following morning wasn't quite as sunny but we hired bikes from the hostel and cycled through the mist! Our determination was rewarded with sunshine and the ride was actually enjoyable (not as many bloody hills as Jasper!!).

We cycled to the South Pacific Cannery Museum which looked quite spooky with mist still surrounding it! A train came flying past the cannery just as we were leaving and I had never seen Alan move so fast for his camera!

On the way back into town we stopped at the amazing Bhutze rapids........... a natural phenonemon where the great tidal changes create some stunning rapids! The walk there was 20 minutes and ok, it was through forest. We arrived at the lookout to see ...... flat calm waters......... no rapids at all so we turned around and followed the same 20 minute trail back! Maybe if you visit them at high or low tide then it would be a little impressive!!!!

So after the 40 minute wasted walk, after cycling 30 kms, we got back onto the bikes and cycled Prince Rupert bound!

A much needed beer was needed before Alan wandered to the chippy and came back with scrumptious fish and chips (halibut is the best).

Of course we went for a cheeky at the nearest and dearest bar before we crashed!

We woke up with Natalie bamging on our door telling us there were some deer in the garder outside... right next to the hostel. We managed to get a quick piccie, however, apparently, these were regular visiters to the hostel and even the guys camping in the garden had gotten used to having them wonder by for their morning feed!

Today we're on the Ferry over to the Queen Charlotte Islands for a few days with Steve and Nat

So, if you were to have asked me where the Queen Charlotte Islands were before I'd come to Canada.... not a clue!

However, Since we'd been in Prince Rupert a few people had raved about this clump of islands over the water even further West than we were!

They also housed the only remaining (and original) Haida Totem Poles and an original Haida Meeting House. This sounded good so we'd arrange with Steve and Nat to pop over on the ferry and stay in a backpackers in Queen Charlotte City (city being perhaps one of the most loosely used terms in this instance I've seen for a while!)

So we arrived at the ferry terminal and jumped on the ferry. We were foot passengers so we checked in our bags and jumped on board. The sea was flat calm and as we pulled out the mist started to clear to reveal a crystal blue sky. It was beautiful and as we sailed down the islands en route to existing the Canadian Western Islands to head out to sea we were all sat outside, basking in the sunshine and admiring the beautiful scenery.

The ferry was relatively cheap so even I was happy (at this point !)

It got even better as we moved along the channels and into Open water with a couple of humpbacks spotted in the distance. Then there were porpoises in the seas around the ship and then an announcement that a minke whale was spotted on the Starboard side of the ship.

Everyone rushed to see the whale, however, I hung back to see what was happening on the Port Side... Steph could always call me if she spotted it.

I then spotted some fins in the distance... larger fins however and as we got closer it was apparent it was a small pod of Killer Whales. Now what they were doing isn't clear, however, they were heading in the same direction as the Minke whale, so I reckon they might have been testing it's fitness (Hunting it!)

Anyway, the ship soon put a stop to that (albeit unknown to the captain) who never mentioned on the tannoy that there were Orca's on the Port Side of the ship and the Orca's were on a collision course!

The Orca's Slowed as the ship approached and then swam down along the port side of the ship. Then after we'd passed them they disappeared off .... heading in the same direction as the Minke!

So an eventful ferry and beautiful one was had by all and then after two hours sailing in open waters we saw the Charlottes and sailed into Skidegate (a small town just south of where we were staying)

We jumped into a taxi once our bags had arrived and went to the Hostel. It was a nice hostel, even if the Lady Owner was a bit Abrupt to start off with, and there were apparently two scientists in the Hostel with us.

We’d been informed of this as the Two Scientists seemed to be very precious to the lady, so much so, that she’d reiterated to both Steph and Steve when they’d booked the rooms that there was DEFINITELY no drinking to be had late into the night!

She seemed worried that the scientists would be woken up by the rabble caused by Foreign these Backpackers!

It turned out that the scientists were Science Teachers… and they’d be there for only a couple of more days anyway…so not too sure what the lady Hostel owner was going on about.

Anyway, the hostel was nice, however, there was only room enough for one of the couples….. ! Damn !!!

As a result one couple was to be in another hotel (literally next door) for one night, so having seen the double in the hotel and the rather nicer room in the Hotel, we drew lots.

Now this is where I started to remember why I don’t travel too much with other couples!

Ok… so we drew lots (i.e. the toss of a coin) and we won… so Steph and I wanted to stay in the nice room. This was fine with Steve, however, Natalie wasn’t too happy with this and made a little stink about it so much so that Steph and I stayed in the hostel for the night in the end! Not worth the bother!

Anyway, after a good nights sleep and having chatted to another couple in the hostel called Shannon and Jamie, we woke up and went to pick the hire car up.

The only way to get around the Charlottes is to either hire a car… or hitch a ride. Since there were 4 of us… it was much better value if we hired a car. So we did !

The Hire car was cheap and between the four of us a good deal for 3 days of transport around the North Island (The only one with roads on!)

We packed up and, having stopped briefly in Skidegate to watch a guy carving a totem pole from scratch, headed North.

We passed Many a Bald Eagle (they seem as common as Crows over here) on the waters edge as we drove North, however, we’d heard they had bears on the Charlottes and all of us were secretly hoping we’d spot one (from the car of course!)

Then in the distance, Natalie spotted a bear crossing the road!

It was massive ! Apparently, the black bears in the charlottes are the largest in Canada as they’re the only bear on the charlottes and therefore the top predator!!

This guy was huge and Steve rolled up quietly next to him to try and get some piccies!

He wasn’t bothered about us and having changed his mind about three times as to which direction to turn off the road, he wandered into the brush!

Our first Black Bear! And he was a big bugger too !!!

We headed up to Masset (at the far North of the Island and the largest Town on the islands… although not a city like the metropolis of Queen Charlotte City!!!) for supplies. Unfortunately, I thought we’d be able to get an MSR gas canister for my little cooker… however… they were all out! We’d have to rely on the good old method of cooking on a fire! Steve and Nat had no cooking stuff and only the one Sleeping bag… so it was up to Steph and I to provide the cooking implements!

OK… on to the camp site!

We camped on Agate Beach and having set up camp, managed to get the fire lit and up before it started to drizzle! Luckily we’d put the fire pit under some trees so it was fairly well sheltered!

After a few beers, some pasta and sauce and chatting with Shannon and Jamie (who’d camped just down from us also!) we hit the tent for an uncomfortable nights sleep!

When we woke it wasn’t raining, however, Steve had the fire up and running again and we cooked some eggs for brekkie.

We headed back into Masset for some supplies (No gas!) and then on the way back.. it started to rain….and rain…..and rain!

We stood underneath the bushes for about another 4 hours!

Luckily the fire remained lit so cooking was still a possibility!

Shannon and Jamie came over at 4pm as the rain had lifted slightly and offered to give us a lift to Tow Hill Summit! Steve and Nat couldn’t be bother and Steph and I got the distinct feeling Natalie wasn’t exactly an outdoors sort of person (poor Steve !)

It stopped raining when we got there so we walked up to the lookout and then descended to the Blow Holes Where Jamie decided to try out his waterproofs! Very Funny!

We returned to the camp and Steve and Nat hadn’t really moved at all, so we quickly cooked up some tea and then we all wondered down to Jamie and Shannon’s camp (as they had a tarpaulin and it had started to rain…again!

We left at 8:30 am to get the hire car back before 12pm (which meant we’d hired it for only 2 days in total and worked out cheaper!)

We beeped goodbye to Shannon and Jamie as we drove past (who were still in their beds nursing a hangover I’d assume like the rest of us!)

We drove down to Queen Charlotte City and dropped the car off.

Steph and I fancied getting down to the South Island, however, it was expensive and so we decided to finally book a boat trip down to one of the less Southerly islands where we could still see Haidi Totems (if not the Gwaai Haanas UNESCO Site which was further south… and some $400 dollars Each to get to!)

The Next Day, we said our goodbyes to Steve and Nat and got ready for our trip… it had been cancelled ! Damn! We spent the day at the Haida Museum in Skidegate and that night had a few drinks with our new Hostel Mates (Stephanie and Claudia)

Claudia had only just met us, but having been chatting down by the docks with a old sailor had arranged for a short tour on his Tug Boat for the four of us! It was nice and gave us a different idea of how Queen Charlotte Culture was.

We paid him with a 6 pack of beer… of which we all had one and said our goodbyes.. as simple as that! Cool Older Guy!

Anyway, the next day we headed for the Ferry. Darius (the guy who looked after the hostel and worked for the other lady) who’d befriended Nadia (another girl in the hostel and was on our ferry) gave us all a lift down to the ferry for free, which was cool again… albeit I had to ride in the back of the truck which was reserved for the his dog normally !

Anyway, we made the ferry and chatted to Nadia for most of the journey back over to the Mainland.

This time the weather was considerably worse… a four meter swell, so the ferry had to detour North a bit to compensate… and there was no sitting outside this time !

We made it back and Christie came and picked us up from the hostel again which was nice. We were back in a nice hostel and we had our double room. We unpacked, went for a quick drink and some tea and then crashed out.

Now… where to next ?

So a day later the train pulled into the Station at Churchill and we were allowed to board. Surprisingly the train was full as there was a tour party of about 50 Oldies also booked on the train for the first part of the trip.

The faces on the train other than the oldies were all familiar as Churchill is such a small place you'd regularly bump into people off the train on the journey up.

So having spent the past week or so looking for the Northern Lights in Churchill we were rewarded on the train journey back with a light show from the train as we pulled into The Pas. The Lights were green and waved in the sky as the train plodded along the track southward. They're pretty cool to watch, however, no photo opportunities as the train was moving (which I was annoyed at) however, at least we finally got to see them.

Since the train was delayed for a day we were rewarded by Via Rail with free breakfasts and free lunch and dinners all the way down to Winnipeg and together with an interesting mix of "hard Core" train travelers that braved the 2 day trip down to Winnipeg the journey flew by.

We pulled into Winnipeg and had reserved the HI hostel (which was the newer one) which we thought was closer to the train station. Unfortunately for us it still involved a good 20 hike through Winnipeg to the new hostel, but we got a double room and slept quite soundly after a quick tea and popping up to the other hostel to see some people we'd met there before.

We jumped on the train the following day and headed off to Jasper (which is where the Rockies start)

The journey was very scenic passing through the Wheat fields of Canada (loads and loads of flat fields spinning off into the distance) and then finally a day later we started to move into the Rockies good and proper.

We arrived in Jasper at 4pm which is a lovely little town in the middle of the Rockies.

Luckily Natalie and Simon (the Welsh couple we'd met in Winnipeg) had given us the details of a little Bed and breakfast which was supposed to be really nice so we found the address of the B&B and then rocked up at the door.

A lovely older lady, called Trudy, welcomed us (together with their chocolate Lab Dog) and we were shown our room (which was the only room that the lady had!)

The town was a bit touristy and reminded us of a smaller Bariloche, except in Canada, however, the mountains and surrounding lakes were beautiful.

The next day we were to explore Jasper and the surrounding National Park.

Steph got up and then woke me up saying she'd seen a "ghost dog!"

Trudy, the landlady, used to have an old Labrador dog who'd died a few years earlier and for some reason there was a Lab (together with the Chocolate Lab) playing on the floor in the kitchen.

Of course, there was a logical explanation for Steph's Paranormal Experience!

That night there had been a large thunder storm and a local dog (who happened to be an older Labrador) had wondered over to Trudy's house for shelter. Trudy had taken the dog in until the morning....

Ghost Dog I tell you !!!!

Anyway, after Steph's Apparition, we headed off for the day to go and explore. Trudy's Son, Fred, lent us his mountain bikes (for nothing which was great) so Steph and I headed off towards Maligne Canyon. This was some 20k's away and after a while we realised it was mostly up hill

The Canyon was packed with tourists, so Steph and I headed down the path so we could avoid most of the day trippers who only stayed by the upper canyon. Here it was much nicer and the river had gorged out a lovely canyon through the Forest.

On the return journey (which was mostly down hill Steph was glad to find out) we headed back over a bike path through the forest.

Jasper National Park is home to bears, so Steph and I were a little apprehensive incase we stumbled over one whilst whistling through the forest path... so we talked loudly and whistled and sang songs as we peddled through.

We never saw a bear, however, we did see a large Elk with massive horns parading around in the trees.

The path took us alongside some of the lakes surrounding Jasper and with the beautiful sunny weather they looked lovely.

After a few beers and a quick supper we headed back to bed (exhausted after our long bike ride)

After Breakfast we grabbed the bikes again and headed out to the Tramway which would take us up one of the surrounding mountains. It was a hard ride (mostly up hill again) and after a couple of hours Steph and I pulled into the Tramway "Airport".

We booked our "departure" tickets and our "flight" left some ten minutes later.

It was misty and we couldn't see the top of the mountain, however, Fred (Trudy's Son) had informed us earlier that the weather often did this in Jasper and would clear up later in the day.

Fortunately for us, this was indeed the case and having reached the Top, almost immediately, the weather seemed to change and the views down onto the valley below and of the surrounding mountains were spectacular.

We walked up to a higher point on the mountain and took some pictures of the local wildlife (ground squirrels and Ptarmigan... like highland pheasants.... but they turn white in winter)

Tonight was to be the night of the Jasper Rodeo.

Steph and I had bought tickets earlier in the day and had been told that it was to be “Pink night”…. In aid of Breast Cancer.

Trudy lent Steph and Stetson Hat and some Cowgirl boots and I had a pink neckerchief on, so we wandered into town to catch the rodeo.

Now we’ve never been to a rodeo before, so with Canadian beers in hand Steph and I settled down to some Cowboy and cowgirl fun.

We weren’t disappointed as firstly they switched off all the lights and a group of horses sporting fluorescent lights paraded up and down and in and out of the stadium.

Next was where a guy rode next to a calf and wrestled it to the ground (the winner being the quickest) and then we also had some horse riding (where the guys had to stay on the horse for the longest) and then finally after a good two hour show came the finale.

Bull riding !

Now these guys must be nuts ! Honestly ! These bulls were massive and as we learned during the course of the evening, the bulls being fairly mild mannered in temperament were “encouraged” to perform by having their nuts wrapped in some string and having the string tightened before opening the gate with the nutter cowboy on it’s back!

Wow did these things bounce (so would I if my nuts were tightened up into my throat too I thought)

However, the line was loosened after the bull had done with flinging the cowboy twenty feet into the air and threatened to skewer a few of the clowns and maybe even some spectators in one instance !!!!

It was a good night and afterwards Steph and I went to the Rodeo Dance where all the locals gathered to consume alcohol and square dance ( or whatever it’s called… formation dancing anyway !)

We awoke with a bit of a hang over (Steph worse than I since she’d been drinking half pints of wine the previous night) and after some breakfast Trudy gave us a lift to the train station and we said goodbye.

We boarded the train (for the last time) and headed off towards Prince George and then ultimately Prince Rupert on the Eastern coast of Canada… our last stop on our rail passes.

The Rail passes had been good overall value in that they’d allowed us to travel across Canada (huge that it is) in relative comfort and taken us to places we’d never have ventured in a car or on a bus, so all in all, a good deal.