Around the World in as long as it takes.

We left Cusco for Puno and Lake Titicaca with Cruz Del Sur, the gringo bingo bus (the bus that makes you play bingo.... well its good to practice counting in spanish)!!!

It happened to be Cullens' birthday, an american amigo who was also travelling from Cusco to Puno with us! This seemed to cause great excitement with the Cruz Del Sur guy who, after noticing the birthdate on the passport, sang happy birthday over the microphone on the bus ha ha!!

Puno was just a working city with very little except Lake Titicaca, so we would stay only a few days here! We decided to stay at Inkas Rest Hostal where the owners were very nice indeedy who, after hearing about Cullens birthday celebrations, proceeded to ply us with numerous shots! This was at lunch time!!! After 4 or 5 we decided we better head for food before we were sozzled ha ha! A little later we arrived back to find a birthday cake waiting at the hostal which I thought was very nice and even though it was neither Alans or my birthday we had to have a slice, it would be rude not to!!!

Much later we found ourselves in a good bar with a few cervezas...... surprise surprise!!!!

The next day Alan and myself had an early start to visit the Uros Floating Islands and Taquille Island!

After leaving Puno the boat shortly arrived at one of the floating islands on the massive Lake Titicaca. The Uros Islands are made completely with reeds and do literally float! The Ayamari people do still live on them (apparently) and speak little spanish (but enough to sell the odd gringo a miniture reed boat or two)!

The people welcomed us with a traditional dance before greeting us off the boat and on to the squidgy reed island!! It was a little touristy with woman selling numerous artisans in their big skirts and pom poms in their plaited hair BUT it was good fun and everybody was very friendly!!

Walking on the islands was a little weird, it felt like you could put your foot straight through to the water..... but no one did!!!

As we crossed to a second reed island we passed an old woman rowing, in the most inefficient and awkard position of standing tall! They all seemed to like this position!!???

The second island was very similar with more artisans to sell but no hassle all the same!! We also saw a tame Heron that would chirp around the island asking for food ! Not too sure if it gave anything back in reply to the Locals people feeding it though ?

It was then onto Taquille Island.... a little further on Lake Titicaca.

We must have been travelling on one of the slowest boats ever made and so it seemed a life time to arrive.

Ayamari people also inhabit the island (like all of Lake Titicaca) and as we stepped onto the harbour jetty we could see many of the locals, all dressed in their traditional clothes!!

The walk around the island to the main plaza took us past many terraces and small farm buildings! It was extremely pretty in the bright sunshine and one thing we noticed was the cleanliness. The place was litter free which was unusual for Peru! The people obviously were quite proud of their island!

We reached the plaza to find it extremely touristy, not in any particular way only that there were more gringos than locals!!!!!

Kids consistently tried to sell their 1 sol bracelets. One little girl put a bracelet around my arm and tied it in the tightest knot she could in the hope I would give in and just buy it........ but cold hearted me ........ and the fact that she has to learn that gringos are not just the bank of Peru...... let her relunctantly untie the bracelet! They were giggly and nice enough though!

The town Hall seemed quite posh and a few important men, in traditional smart dress, piled out with briefcases..... obviously the guys who made all the decisions here!

It was then time for Almuerzo......... we would have prefered to spend the time wandering around the island but I must say it was a very nice almuerzo, even though it was a little pricey at 12 sols!!!

After the food we walked past more farmhouses and down the inca steps to the port on the other side of the island. As we looked from the very top step we could see a procession of gringos like army ants. A pre toddler was perched precariously on the wall selling bracelets... obviously put there by some money scheming adult!!!

We descended the gringo steps and boarded our boat. The port was a hustle and bustle of both locals and visitors, it was very colourfull! As we sat on the roof of the boat, waiting for the other passengers, we watched local kids playing and woman fishing.... so this is where everyone was!!

Well that was Taquille Island, we both thought it was very touristy and unfortunately we didn't seem to see that much at all!

The boat took just as painfully long on the way back but it made time for a decent snooze ha ha!

Lake Titicaca and the islands had been sunny all of the time but as soon as we came near to Puno the rain hit, suddenly and very hard!!! It seems the lake has its own micro climate!

Later on we visited the local bar again but not too many cervezas as we had another early start and a border crossing......... Bolivia here we come!!!

We´d spent roughly four days waiting for our Inca trail passes to be processed, the time being well spent (Steph thought) shopping for xmas presents amongst the numerous Shops and market stalls scattered all over Cusco.

We´d Decided to go with Pumas Trek Peru in the end.....

Reasons....

well.....

Kind of difficult that one. More to do with them being accredited and on the cheaper scale for the trek than anything else.

I´ve written a full inca trail review here on the travellerspoint website regarding agent selection etc. so I won´t go into the specifics (but should you wish to read it here´s the link to the Wiki Travel Guide.... most of which is the same as the post)

http://www.travellerspoint.com/guide/Inca_Trail/

We had a curry in the Indian restaurant in Cusco the night before we left (which was marvellous) and then after a cheeky in the KMzero bar by the hostel... packed our bags for the next 4 days of walking!

We awoke at 4am and even managed to get a coffee from the Night watchman at the hostel.

5am and we walked down to the San Blas square where we were told we´d be picked up by the tour agency. It was daylight already so it was no problems and we happened to bump into clare (an American Lady who was also on our trip and also at our hostel) as we walked to the square.

Our "pickup" consisted of the tour agency secretary walking up the hill and telling us we had to walk down the hill to Plaza San Francisco.... no problem, however, the first thing that differed from what we were told.

If we´d been told to go to Plaza san francisco.... no problems... we´d have walked down the hill ourselves... without our accompanying body guard.... however....

We arrived at the plaza and our bus was waiting for us.... together with a group of 8 Israeli´s....... shite !!!!

I won´t bother explaining why this was seen as a bad thing by Steph and I, however, if you´ve read our earlier entries in south America or ever backpacked down here you'll know what we mean

anyway... our opinions turned out to be totally wrong which was nice!!!

Another one for the "forming an opinion of someone all too quickly !!!" Almenac.

Clare managed to forget her passport (the original copy) and so we hung around for another 15 minutes while she caught a taxi... for which she payed herself to go back to the hostel and then back down to Plaza SanFrancisco.

Finally we were all on the bus, our porters included, and we trundled off towards Ollantaytambo... some 2 hours away!

Here, as per usual, we were treated to a 20 minute "refreshment stop" where we were informed that the purchasing of a Locally made walking stick was "necessary" or at least were invited to purchase something from the numerous stalls and hawkers milling around the plaza.

Steph and I did our usual and hid in the corner coffee shop and began chatting with the owner who turned out to be very interesting and at the ripe old age of 70 had decided to emigrate to Peru to help the local people and open a coffee shop....

"game ol' burd"

Anyway, Steph topped her Chocolate supplies up and we then headed off in the bus once again towards Km 82 (where we were due to start walking!)

Once again we were greeted by a hord of locals selling "necessary" hiking sticks.

We now met our "Grade B" guide (Grade B being fluent in English and spanish we had been reliable informed)

Now Hernan was a nice guy....

......but his English was pretty shite!

And I mean really pretty poor... especially his pronounciation.... This was something he and I could work on for the next 4 days I thought, however, a grade B guide he was not! another little "white lie" surfaces I thought.

There was going to be quite a few of these "little white Lies" it would turn out!

We hoped this wouldn´t affect the commentary we´d been promised at each of the Archaelogical sites ?

So... our little group was formed...

Myself, Steph, Clare, Hernan.... and Jackie !!!

Jackie was 58, Australian (or English Origin), was travelling around the world on her own and a lady..... well.... lets just say with a mind of her own

I´m sure she won´t mind me saying that

So.... It was Lunchtime as the (In) "Famous Five" set off on the Inca trail..... four days and 40 Kms to go !!

As we started the walk a guy holding an Antique camera rushed in front of us..... I was quite intrigued as to his camera as it was definately something from the dark ages that surprisingly seemed still to be working !

We´d find out the results and his reasoning in four days time !!

It was an easy start to the trail.

We were all chatting away and Hernan was trying to explain some of the upcoming highlights (which I have to say Clare and Jackie tended to ignore and this wound me up a bit!... OK the guy wasn´t brilliant at English.... but that didn´t mean he was stupid! Steph and I listened and tried to decipher what we could!)

The trail rolled alongside the river for the first few Kms and after a couple of hours we stopped for lunch.

Now.... this was another area where "you get what you pay for" once again turns out to be OH so true !!!!

We sat under some trees and waited.

We were first to the Lunch "site", however, we sat around.

Other groups passed us and went for their lunch, however, we had to wait.

The rest of the people (8 Isrealis a Brazilian and a Korean) also with Pumas Trek Peru (with a different guide though) arrived....

and still we waited.....

This was wierd!

1 HOUR later.....

our porters carrying all their gear rushed past.....

The Tent was hastily erected in the middle of a field, the cooks started cutting carrots and the kettle was put on!

OK, it was time for Lunch...... It was 3pm !!!

We were all invited to sit in the flimsy and hastily erected tent.... ALL 14 of US !!!! Squashed into the small tent that was now starting to flap around in the increasingly strong wind that was the prelude to an immenant downpour!!!

Steph and I spotted this and huddled under a big tree with a wall for protection.

We sipped our soups under the cover of the tree (which was surprisingly good and keeping us dry) as the other 12 struggled to keep dry as the tent flapped around.

Soup was spilt, Coca tea was dropped and Spaghetti was splashed as the guys in the tent attempted to eat whilst holding down the edge of the tent.....

Steph and I were somewhat smug in our little natural cubby hole

Clare and Jackie soon joined us and soon after the Porters were left to tidy up the camp site as we were behind schedule now and needed to catch up (or so our guides informed us!!!)

With Bin Bags and ruck sack covers wrapped around our bags and an assortment of rain Macs, Tarpaulins, Ponchos and once again bin Bags wrapped around both ourselves and the porters we trudged in the mud and rain along the remainder of the track.

We did pass by the Llaqtapata ruins as we walked though. It was far below us and we didn´t get to visit the site, however, even in the dismal conditions the site nonetheless looked impressive as we surveyed it from high.

We camped that night at Wyllabamba.... 3000 metres above sea level.

It was a nice little camp site and by the time we arrived the poor porters had rushed up ahead of us and set up the tents etc.

Steph and I had one, and Jackie and Clare had one.

We had afternoon tea (coca tea and Popcorn) and chatted to the Israelis and the Brazilian and Korean. however, this time it wasn´t under a tent but rather under a more permanent structure with a roof and seats etc...... Oh the Luxury !!!

The camp was in a small village next to the Wyllabamba archaelogical site and since it had stopped raining by now, Steph and I dropped our stuff and walked around the site.

Upon our return it was tea time.

Soup, Beef, Chips (yep...chips.... but they were cold) and salad.

Before we ate we witnessed a little ceremony and song by the Israeli Guys and Gals as it was Hanukkah.

They´d even brought with them a little candle holder and candles, so we were witness (my first time i have to say) to a little bit of Religion whilst on the Inca Trail.

The Israelis were nice enough to explain the reasoning behind the festival to us "Non-believers" and it was generally a nice evening all in all.

After a cup of coca tea we all headed off to our pits.... however..... the weather had cleared and we were all rewarded for our initial days efforts by a beautiful star lit sky.

Early to bed....... unfortunately...... Early to Rise !!!

After the Inca Trail we felt very lazy and chilled over the next few days! We Walked past the famous Incan wall of Cusco, with the 15 edged stone and a guy dressed Like an Inca (apparently) standing next to it ready to charge for photos, and the many women hawkers asking if you wanted a massage (pronounced massakeeee..... didn´t know Cusco was the health spa capital of Peru???) everyday towards the Plaza de Armas.

At the Plaza we drank many coffees at our favourite coffee place 'Cappucino'. We also visited a few of our favourite restuarants '2 Nations' and the fantastic Indian restuarant (the only one in Peru I think) mmm!

It was all very relaxing but we did manage to squeeze a city tour into the hectic schedule!!

We started off well with the same guide as the sacred valley tour. Alan and myself couldn´t help but giggle at his over exaggerated pronounciations and funny anecdotes (he reminded us of Manwel from the tv show Faulty Towers ha ha)!

The tour started at Koricancha where inca ruins were mostly destroyed by the conquistadors and a 17th century church built on the site with the stone and the gold that completely surrounded the inca site! It must have been pretty impressive at its time but now the church was the main feature!!

It was then onto Sacsayhuaman (not pronounced sexy woman but over exaggerated Sacsayhuaman!!!!)

Saccccccccccccsayyyyyyyyyyhhhhhhhhhhuamannnnnnn was huge and very impressive (a bit like it´s name!).

A birds eye view would show you the zig zag walls forming the shape of a puma! The sheer size of the stones were amazing! There were three intact doorways ..... huge doorways..... very big for small Incans!

Next was Qenko, not that grand but it was cool to walk through the caves (that ran through the stone rock) that had carved stone chairs beneath!

Puca Pucara (red fort) was next at the top of the valley....... not much was left of it but it had spectacular views of the valley, it was thought to be a resting point for incan soldiers!

Opposite was Tambo Machay, a slightly steepish climb led to an incan bath used for physical cleansing and purification! So I ofcourse dabbed the old stuff over my face and will forever look the same..... if only I had visited when I was 21!!!

They apparently use the Tambo Machay water in Cusqeña, the local beer, so we downed a few later at KM0 (a local bar)..... all in the act of cleansing and purification.... but of course

5:30 am we arrived in Cusco on the night bus from Arequipa!

It was early but the hostal was pretty used to early buses and welcomed us with a nice cup of coca tea! Casa de la gringa (not somewhere I would of picked previously based on the name) was a really nice hippy pad. It was a wee bit expensive for Peru.... but we were in gringo-ville (or is that Vile!) and the very nice, tranquil San Blas!!!

We wandered down to the plaza de armas which was a happening little square with plenty of reasonably priced coffee shops high up on the sides of the plaza buildings and great places to people watch (in the next few days we spent many a cup of coffee sitting out on the tiny balconies overlooking the square) and (it must have been) the most photographed water fountain in the world!!! Well.... by the locals anyway

Our first day was spent researching the options of whether to hike the inca trail or hike an alternative trek like the popular salkantay trek! After talking to numerous companies with numerous different prices we decided on a local company (Puma Trek) which had been the most helpfull (I personally wasn´t keen on the United Mice guy.... he was particularly arrogant and I had no time for him)! The wait for the Inca Trail was only 4 days so it was an opportunity we couldn´t miss!!

Later that day we watched the sun set over san blas from the comforts of the Muse Bar and an ice cold beer (although ice cold may not have been neccesary as it was getting a wee bit chilly now the sun had gone down)!

The next day was shopping day....... yeah for Steph and doh for Alan ha ha!

Its a bit strange christmas shopping in the heat of Cusco by day but the christmas trees donned many shop and cafe windows!

Of course the best christmas shopping is at the market places where you can get bargains galore! It can also be quite stressfull as we had to barter over 5 soles or so and apparently our eyes were not working properly as every market stall owner told us exactly what was on show, pointing to the object promptly....... hat, scarf, gloves....... gracias!

All that stress led to a much needed cold beer at Muse (again) followed by a bit of a mad night with a friend we had met in the hostal! I ended up getting a little tipsy.... must have been the effects of the altitude!

The following day we had arranged a trip to the sacred valley of the incas. It was very cheap at 25 soles! We boarded the bus at about 9am (ish.... mañana mañana!.... but of course !!!)

We sat next to a slightly eccentric old guy, called Robin, who was an avid bird watcher and only on the trip to spot condors! He was an interesting guy, especially after just spending 2 weeks in the jungle!

Our first stop was supposed to be Pisac for the colourful huge market but we stopped at a smaller market (supposedly less touristy) first!

Pisac was a massive market and pretty impressive, we only had 40 minutes so we rushed straight to the middle and made our way back. Managed to get a few purchases in and a lovely cheesy empanada!

Next stop, the ruined citadel. It was a bit of a climb but the sight of the huge terraces set against huge mountains made it worth it! We all followed our guide who waved the peruvian flag high above his head to show us the way ha ha (I know.... quite embarassing!!!)

The main Temple del Sol (sun temple) was relatively small but set high on the mountain giving great views of the sacred valley and the sacred river!

To get a photo at the smaller lower site of ruins I ran down 100 steps, Alan took a photo and I ran back up...... completely knackered......... altitude!!!!

One of our fellow passengers cut his hand on a cactus (quite hard to actually do) and winged about it all the time to the next stop (lunch) and then all the way through lunch untill (and only after lunch ofcourse) he decided to go to the medical centre!!! I looked more likely that Cusco was going to be one of "those" places with "those" sort of people !!!!

Lunch was at a place called Urubamba. It was at a total gringo (with gringo prices) restuarant and was buffet style! Alan and myself took one look inside and thought f*** this and went across the road. Our meal was expensive.... but very nice and not a drop of a cold buffet with Salmonella laden salad anywhere !!!

Ollantaytambo next, a really nice place although it was ram packed with tourists. The whole town was surrounded by the ruins!

Climbing up the solid stone terraces we saw amazing views of the town and valley. We could also see the mountain of Rio Patacancha which had a huge incan sculpture of Wiracochan (the main incan god) facing towards Machu Picchu. Apparently during the winter solstice the sun rises and shines just under the face of Wiraccochan!

We walked around the terraces on a narrow path (following the peruvian flag ofcourse) and down to the incan baths before it was time to go!! Time to go..... we had only seen one quarter of the site and were quite gutted!! We would have to return!

Next stop... Chinchero (village of the rainbow). Surprise surprise we headed straight for the market, which was on the original incan market site! Colourfull market but we were only interested in the ruins! Built on top of the ruins was a 17th century church.

Our guide gave us 30 minutes to look around, forgetting to remind us of the quite large ruins just around the corner........ with a carved stone throne! Alan, Robin and myself went exploring on our own and found a very interesting stone rock in the middle of a field with secret stairs up to the top and a carved throne!

The light was dim and so it was time to head back to Cusco! It was a little rushed but for 25 soles you couldn´t go wrong...... even if Robin never saw his condors!!!

We were awoken to a tap tap on the Tent door, which was also accompanied by a cup of piping hot Coca tea.

A nice touch and more than made up for the 5am wake up call!

Our backpacks were packed and we headed for Breakfast whilst the porters packed away our tents..... which was an entirely new experience... Luxury or what !

It was a lovely morning and the weather seemed to have changed for the time being from yesterdays downpours.

We got some Maize porridge (which was surprisingly good although it was easier to drink it than spoon feed yourself it), the obligatory bread & Jam and Pancakes.... WHAT ???

Yep.... feckin Pancakes !

First time I´d had pancakes whilst camping that´s for sure ! They were warm and nice too which made it all the better !

Then it got better........... How ???

We got a goody bag each !

WOW !!!

We got a carton of juice, an apple (unbruised which was something!), a chocolate buscuit thingy and some coca sweets !

OK.... so you get some shitty things happen to you by not paying for the most expensive trip... however.... the cheaper ones also manage to treat you every once in a while (which was nice!)

We headed off at 6:30am sharp with Jackie and Clare rejuvenated and leading the way with Steph an I close on their heels and Hernan... well... somewhere behind us ?? Not too sure where though !

We soon hit the Uphill section of the Trek !

We´d been warned about Day 2 being a stiff ascent, however, it was about 8:30am already and the sun was baking us as we trapsed up the trail.

It was funny (well... sort of with Heinsight!) as we struggled with the steepness of the ascent combined with the altitude issues associated with breathing. However, you were intermittantly reminded that it could always be worse....

As a Porter Loaded down with a 30 Kilo Backpack trapsed past you!

Brought you down to earth anyway as our packs (assuming you had a large one that was) weighed anything from 2 to 10 kilos at most! even with our sleeping bags and sleeping mats)

Jackie started to feel the effects of the Altitude and the walking a bit later on up the hills. Fair enough I suppose as this isn´t a trail for the un fit (as we were finding out !!!)

Some of the Israeli Guys had decided to bring virtually their entire backpacks with them and hence had packs weighing (I reckon) maybe up to about 20 Kilos !!! And they knew it !!

Injuries were starting to Surface and one of the Israeli Girls decided to hire a porter for the remainder of the hike up to Dead Womans pass.

As we pointed out to her.... better to pay a little extra and get there than not to get there at all !!!

The Israeli Guys weren´t having any of it though and struggled on upwards!

Steph and Jackie decided to swap bags as Jackie was struggling.

We finally arrived at what we thought was the summit...... it was a flat piece of land called Llulluchampa, however, after a brief restbite and buying some more water (which incidentally was getting more expensive the further up the trek you got) Hernan informed us that the hardest section was yet to come and that it was another 2 hours or so walking to reach "Dead Womans Pass"

Jackie Revelled at this (both the time remaining and the name of the pass!)

It was steep going and Jackie and I took our time getting up by taking regular breathers every 50 or so steps.

Steph and Clare headed off ahead, whilst I held back with Jackie.

It was a lovely walk (apart from the altitude, steepness and the trek itself) and the views back down the valley were amazing. It sort of gave you hope that you´d eventually get to the Pass and have a rest......

Eventually..... we made it.

Jackie and I were down to having a break every 20 steps or so (which was quite slow I know) however, we all made it and had a photo with the lot of us when the poor Israeli guys and their full backpacks stumbled to the summit also !

We were at Warmiwanusca. It was the highest point of the trek at 4,200 metres and boy did we know it !

After some biscuits and some backslapping we headed downhill towards our camp. It was at 3,800 metres and having held back to ensure Jackie was safely up the hill earlier, I hammered it downhill on my own ahead of the others.

Late lunch was had at camp and then we had the remainder of the afternoon to relax and chill out (or recover as we called it!)

It had taken it toll on some of the guys though and knee injuries and back injuries were sprouting up amongst the whole group.

That night the Israelis lit another candle before we had our supper (chicken and rice) and we hit our sacks early.

It was a cold night !!!

Steph had managed to swindle my sleeping bag (which is warmer than hers) and so at 5am when our Coca Tea arrived.... I had already been half awake waiting for some warmth to relieve my frozen toes and fingers !!!

The same routine again was followed this morning, and we headed out after brekkie about an hour after getting up.

It was however, only a half hour (albeit steep) ascent to the ruins of Runkuraqay.

The Ruins themselves were covered by mist and so the whole vista was somewhat mystical in appearence.

The Mountain side fort was only a small site, however, was presumed to have been used as a staging area for the inca runners (or messangers) that used to traverse the trek daily passing goods, produce and messages along it´s length.

They covered up to 14 km each if the land was flat and 10 kms if the land was undulating. The messages were passed from one to another at each check point and this meant a message could get from Cusco to Machu Pichu in less than a day...... which is no mean feat these days either !!!!

Half an hour later, we´d reached the summit of yet another "Andean Flat" (i.e. It´s Not FLAT !!!)

Here we headed downhill after a quick buscuit break and towards the Citidel of Sayacamarca Perched on the hillside in the distance.

The Ruins were a Military base and where the Soldiers were based primarily (like an Army barracks!)

Because of it´s locailty, the soldiers could easily reach either side of the sacred valley within a days walk to assist or act out whatever function they were required to perform.

We then continued walking until we reached the Sacrificial site of Phuyupata Marca.

This was one of my favourite sites as you looked down onto the site as you approached it. Firstly it was in the shape of a heart with the two rounded ends heading towards Machu Picchu and the West. It also had some fountains and a Sacrificial Stone Platform at the side of the ruins. Here was where the Llama or Human Sacrifices would take place and the fountains running along side the Platform would run red with the sacrifical blood from it´s victims !

At the top of the platform the Priests would offer whatever it was they had (normally the Hearts of their frshly sacrificed victims held aloft as an offering) to the Mountain Gods... all of which were clearly visible in the distance !

An Intersting place indeed !

Hernan had explained most of this to us in Spanish (just Steph and me as Clare and Jackie had decided to carry on ahead and not bother listening to Hernans Pigeon English account of the site.... Unlucky Them !)

Anyway, from here on was the step Section we´d heard about. The route roughly consisted of 3000 steps heading downwards towards our camp site for the night.

The Steps were cuite steep and luckily for us it wasn´t raining as they were pretty slippery when dry, never mind wet!

Steph an I soon reached a fork in the path and decided to head up to Winawayna as opposed to heading down directly to the camp site.

This was a great decision as there was hardly noone else at the site and it looked pretty much as it had been for the past 400 years or so. Plants still crept up it´s walls and the buildings still looked like it was the first time someone had looked on them for a few millennia.....or so it seemed anyway

I loved it !

We climbed up the steps to the top of the terraces and then headed back down having sat and scanned the surrounding mountains and the Machu Picchu Valley and it´s associated train down below us !

We then headed back to the camp site and srrived just in time for tea.

The camp site was different in that there was a shop that sold beers and also somewhere to have showers!!!!

This was luxury and Steph and I had a shower and a beer before we had a posh tea on a big table in the camp site.

It was buffet style and very nice and afterwards we had a formal (and dead cheesy I thought) "ceremony" where we passed over our "tips" to the porters.

I hated this bit and wasn´t too enamoured when we were asked to say something again......

Luckily one of the Israeli guys stepped up to the challenge and gave a thanks on all our behalfs!

We hit the sack after a few more beers (nothing compared to some of the other groups though who partied until the early hours of the morning !!!)

Our decision was rewarded the following morning, when, whilst it was still dark we were awoken with our customary Coca tea.... at 4am !!!!

Today was the Final walk and we were all queued up by the entrance gate to Machu Picchu at 5am (which is when it opened!)

It was now a race to the Sun gate..... or so it seemed for most of the people on the Trek.....

Steph and I on the other hand continued to take pictures of the views and the Plants etc. as we sauntered up to the Sun gate with Jackie and Clare.

It was especially rewarding when we saw all those that had shoved and ruched past us earlier down the path sat at the sun gate...... except there was no sun !!!!

Sunrise seemed to have been postponed today and the mist seemed to have blocked out the view down to MAchu Pichu !!! All that rushing for nothing it seemed

Steph, Jackie, clare and I all sat down and laughed as the other groups all then filed down the remainder of the path towards Machu Pichu ready for the mist to rise.

Our guides didn´t seem too fussed at our Lack of a view anyway !

The mist did rise... eventually.... however we´d already walked down to the site (where we could see nothing) and gone to the Entrance gate to get our tickets stamped (which was a requirement... and seemed specially strange since we´d already entered the park once !!!)

Anyway, Hernan then sprung it on us that he was leaving us there and we were to join the Isrealis and the Brazilian and Korean´s guide for the tour of Machu Pichu....... hmmmmmmmm

So Hernan´s tip suddenly got smaller as we shaked hands and he headed off back to Cusco... early !

The Other Guide was alright anyway, and his English was a little better than Hernans so maybe it wasn´t such a bad thing after all.

The tour itself turned out to be a pretty much "formal affair"

Whereas, we were taken to Point A

Given a 3 minute talk on Point A

Moved to Point B

Given a 3 minute talk on Point B

Asked if we had any questions...... which invariable couldn´t be answered.

Move onto Point C.....

baaaaaaaaa

Or so it felt !

Such a dissapointment, however, Luckily Machu Pichu Itself came to our rescue and the Site Purely from a Size and Visual point of view more than lived up to it´s Newly adorned title of one of the "UNESCO Seven Wonders of the New World"

We headed to the Sun Temple.

We then headed to the Three Windows.

From here to the Sacred Rock where we got a group picture !

We were also reliably informed that we weren´t allowed to touch it ???)

What ???

It´s a feckin Rock I thought !!!!

Stupid Rules !!! This was to be the start of our run in with Machu Pichu regulations and those that upheld them it turned out!!!

So of course... stone was touched !!!

I was told off and allowed to continue on my way.... However... had I received the Stones Energy and was Stronger and more spiritual as was supposed to happen.....

What do you think !!!!

That´s one thing you´ll find about these sorts of places.... and not Just Machu Pichu..... the Pyramids, Uluru etc. etc.

Some New Age Hippies always seem to cling onto the fact that the site is "Special" and as such... only the "initiated" i.e. those that choose to think like an Idiot can achieve a higher state of Consciousness and as such tap into the "Power of the Rock "

ARRRRGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!

I hate these people and funnily enough (me being a closed persona ) didn´t manage to tap into the "power" of the Rock !!!! Damn !!! And to think I used to think I was the Messiah reborn and "special"!!!!

Damn !!!

Ah well......

After visiting a few more sections of the Ruins (which were magnificent.... as Ruins !!!) We were invited to walk around the site until we then headed down to Aguas Calientes on the bus where we could pick up our rail tickets back to Cusco... via a bus journey also !

Firstly we headed straight back to the "Sacred Rock".......

"Stop !!!!"

What....

we (or rather I) was informed that the Whole site was indeed a "One Way" system .... which meant you weren´t allowed to double back on yourself !!!

Feckin Shite Rules !!!

We walked ahead and around as to back on ourselves and made it to the Viewing Spot overlooking the Site where we´d been realier in the day.

Anyway, everyone immediately ran off in the direction of Huaynu Picchu... the Rock Behind the ruins in the "classic" picture of the site! We decided to head for the viewing spot at the start of the site....

It was time for the Welsh Flag Shot !

Steph got the Camera ready and I got the Flag out...

Snap...Snap.....

"STOP !!!!"

What ???

"You can´t take a picture with a Flag in it.... in fact Flags are not allowed here !!!"

What the F*** ???

"What about feckin Animals ???"

"If you don´t remove your flag then you´ll be escorted from the site!!"

Luckily we´d managed to get off two shots before the "Security" had so nicely informed us that you weren´t allowed to take pictures with a flag at the site !!!

Who the feck comes up with these damn rules I thought !!!

We managed to smuggle in a quick shot of the car too whilst we were there..... no security issues there though !!!

Anyway, Steph and I had been told that Apu Machu Picchu (Machu Picchu Mountain) was a better walk and gave you a different perspective of the site.

This we did... well.... we walked two thirds of the way up and then decided we´d head back down and (minus all the crowds from before) would climb up Huaynu Picchu Also !

This was no mean feat I have to say as both walks are quite tiring !

I was absolutely shattered by the time we reached the Top of Huaynu Picchu, however, we were rewarded by being two of only four others at the Summit and also by watching a Condor Gliding in the Updrafts right next to us as we´d climbed up !!!

Brilliant !

The View of Machu Picchu was different and gave you a better perspective of how big the site was as all the terraces that clung to the cliff sides surrounding the main site were more easily visible.

We headed back down, jumped on the bus and headed to Aguas Caliented (or Machu Picchu Pueblo) where we had a coke and a sandwich with the rest of the guys, before we headed back onto the train to Ullataytambo.

Here we got on a bus and before you knew it we were back in Cusco !!!!

What a trip !

It was eventful, beautiful, testing, and some times tedious, however it was well sowrht doing the Inca Trail purely to see all the ruins leading up to the Climax Machu Picchu.... which we both agree.... definately lived up to the Hype.