Around the World in as long as it takes.

We stumbled up to the Indigena Tours office to greet Mark, Neils and Pip who we had partied with on Christmas Day back in La Paz..... a nice surprise. They had arrived with 3 more ozzies, 1 Korean, 2 Belgium girls and a German Girl!

So after being just 3 of us there now were 2 bus loads heading for a proposed interesting tour!

It was an extremely bumpy and dusty 4 x 4 jeep ride along the desolate roads for 3 and a half hours before we reached Santa Rosa.

The other group had already started their almuerzo (set lunch typical to Bolivia) in the restuarant while we all hobbled out of our jeep, clutching our sore bums!

During the nice almuerzo our group sat in silence, virtually, I started to realise our group hadn't yet bonded!!!!

It was a short ride to Rio Yacuma where we paid the park entrance fee of a hefty 60 Bolivianos each!

We then boarded our Indigena Tour boat with yellow deck-chair like seats. At first we hated the seats thinking they were too posh for us 'roughing it' backpackers BUT not long into the 3 hour boat ride we found them to be a god send....... how comfy they were!

The sun was hot as we (2 indigena tours and a Fluvial tours boat) floated down the Rio Yacuma, spotting the odd aligator ( not too big fortunately) and quite a few birds, the most beautifull being the bird of paradise.... very big and very pretty with its colourful mohican!

Perched high above the Rio, watching everything that was going on, was a huge black monkey...... apparently it was good luck!

A little further on we spotted some squirrel monkeys, very small and cute (some were even carrying babies). They were very curious and came to see us as we quietly watched AND THEN Fluvial tours rammed their way into the action. Their guide put bananas on some of the guys in the boats heads so that the monkeys would jump on top of them...... it was quite funny BUT a bit like a circus act. The Fluvial tours guys thought they were very clever.......... SO thats how it was going to be heh...... them AND US! Fluvial Tours were now nick named the 18-30s or as I called them the Fluvials.

The ride continued where we saw 2 more groups of squirrel monkeys, all to ourselves!

After popcorn and a fight for one of the two hammocks we got back into our comfy deck chairs and headed to....................... the pub........... yes ............ this is Bolivia after all!

After laughing at a chicken in a basket (or rather box) we all settled down on some tree stumps to watch the sun set and have a game of football or volleyball (depending on which "team" you were in!)

We watched the sunset and the Fluvials play volleyball (who couldn't give a toss that there was a sunset at all) with a very nice cerveza fria!

When the sun went down the mozzies came out............... when the mozzies came out so did the Toads..... bring on the troops boys.......... it was very funny!

The mozzies were feasting on us and the toads were feasting on the mozzies SO where was I in the food chain again!!???

We then tip toed over the toads to board the boats insearch of aligators.... or rather aligator's orange eyes!

After one set of eyes were spotted and a few more mozzie bites we headed back to camp for la cena (dinner), spag bowl!

It was then time for a beer run which meant hopping into the boat, with torch in hand, in search of more orange eyes..... we found some and as we went for a closer look stumbled across a gorgeous big bird ( called a Guaco I think) with a beak similar to a Toucan! We then bought beer from the pub and rode back to camp......... bearing gifts, Pacenas!

The next day it was a nice, decent start at 8am to a good breakfast of scrambled eggs, toast, bread and fruit!

Time now, for donning wellies and grabbing cameras before heading into the flooded plains of the pampas for a morning walk!

We followed Luis, our guide, with his machete (for cutting back the foliage or the odd anaconda if it got frisky?) into the field that quickly turned into a river. I soon noticed the hole in my left wellie, this was neither here nor there as the water soon turned to knee level, spilling over the wellies anyhow!

As we reached a small island we could hear Howler monkeys in the distance. On land we emptied the contents of our wellies before waiting quietly while our guide went looking for anacondas............ not something you usually do on a morning walk. I immediately stepped away from any nearby trees and scouted the surrounding area.......... like I knew what I was doing?

We soon got bored of waiting and started searching, finding a Toucan and some grubs (that were apparently good for asthma if eaten??!!).

The fluvials were also there, acting the ass....... playing cricket with a piece of wood and some rotten fruit........ obviously excited at the thought of possibly spotting an anaconda!!!

There was a huge commotion and we all ran through the swampy water...... suddenly forgetting all inhibitions to the creepy crawlies that swam in the murky water...... towards an ant eater.

It was a big one with a huge snout and tiny mouth. We all snapped photos before making a gap to allow the ant eater to hurry away from the chaos!

Back to the island it was insearch of snakes again........ apparently it was very hard with this much water (being that they could be anywhere) and we had almost given up hope when our guide, Luis, spotted the diamond patterned snake skin of an anaconda curled up in a tree! By the size of its gerth they estimated it to be around 3m long!

We all took some photos but our guide did not want to disturb it and so we left it alone as we should of done.

It was then another slog across the water back to the pub, our wellies seemed 10x as heavy as before!

Then it was back to camp for almuerzo and a change of clothes before a wee siesta.

Some of us shared our left overs with a local perminent resident, Frederico the local aligator who hung out for the odd chicken leg and maybe the odd gringo ha ha!

A few of us decided to waste a couple of hours hanging out at the pub with a couple of cervezas and a hammock before riding off on the boat insearch of pink dolphins!

After a few minutes up the river our guide stopped the engine, took his shorts off (revealing some fetching speedos) and told us all to jump in.

The guys, ofcourse, were the first to dive in. I then jumped in, a little cautious, as I think you should be in an amazon river! Guys......... don't pee!!!!!!

The water was murky and tasted pretty shit but the pink dolphins were amazing and very playfull. They nudged our feet in the water, scaring us and tail slapped. As we slapped the water so did they! They were having a whale of a time with a small group but didn't like the big crowds, as we found out when the fluvials arrived and they went quiet for a while....... so would I!?

Back at camp we prepared ourselves for the attack of the mozzies before heading to the pub for sunset and a game of footie........ Alan nearly killed himself, running around like a loonie in the smoldering heat!

At 5am the next morning we were woken up and with big grunts we clambered from beneath our mosquito nets like zombies, into some clothes and onto the boat for an early morning ride!

As we floated downstream, without the noise of the engine, the eerie noise of the howler monkeys and the squawking birds early morning calls made the trip very relaxing....... worth the early rise!

In the distance we suddenly saw flashes of lightening and promptly turned back but the rain hit before we reached camp........ fortunately Alan had his 'emergency' poncho to hand and like a gentleman he donated it to me!

With 2 hours to spare before breakfast we all stumbled back to bed.

The pre-arranged schedule was a nice boat ride after desayuno before an early lunch and then back to the pick up point for the bus to Rurrenabaque. Unfortunately the heavens well and truly opened so any boat trip would have been miserable!

We chilled and ate before we had to board the boat homeward bound....... unfortunately the heavens were still watering us and we got absoulutely soaked BUT it was still nice as we saw lots of birds, some cappucino monkeys and even a pair of black monkeys being romantico!!!!!

The bus arrived, back on land, with some fresh faces ready for action. We slid and squelched through the mud, jumped into the van and drove back along the bumpy road towards Rurrenabaque.

We arrived back safe and sound AND a little muddier and smellier than before......... so it was straight to the shower before heading out to the nice fish restuarant and then Moskitos for a few bevvies and a game of pool with the ozzies!

It was a very lazy morning with a wee bit of a hangover, when we managed to pull ourselves out of bed we headed for our favourite cafe Casa De Campo for breakfast......... well lunch!

When we left Casa De Campo they closed AND so did everyone else.......... apart from the odd child setting off fireworks in their hands (as every child should........ strangely enough we didn't see many Bolivian children with fingers missing??).

The only asian restuarant was still going strong with music blaring out at 1pm and the jakeys pub near lovely hostal Beni had a few customers still draped over the tables asleep ha ha!

With nothing much else we set off for a walk to El Mirador, well we walked and walked and walked past the mirador along the river Beni. It was a really nice walk but quite muddy and slippy in places which made it interesting......... as we tight rope walked along a very wet water pipe!

Tired after our big walk we crashed on the very inviting hammocks at the hostal, preparing ourselves for the pampas trip we had organised for the next day!

At about 10pm the rain started and a huge thunder and lightening storm occured with even heavier rain. Hmmmm Pampas tour tomorrow........... great fun!!!

The next morning came and the rain hadn't stopped since 10pm and we are not talking little piddly Yorkshire drizzle we are talking Bolivian Jungle Rain!!!!!!!!

Funnily enough the Pampas Trip was postponed, whether it was the weather or the fact that there were only three of us is purely down to our speculation but anyhow it was now to be a chilled day again and mmmmmm hammock time!

Its a hard life!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We arrived early in the airport (stupid fools that we were) and waited for our flight to Rurrenbaque..... a small town in the Amazon Basin one hour (by plane) North of La Paz.

We boarded our flight and were in the process of getting our safety instructions.... when.... the pilot informed us that we had to leave the plane as there was rain in the jungle.... and we couldn´t land the plane... so we had to wait !

We went back into the airport and had another coffee as we waited for any news.

We flew with a small company called Amazonas (who have small aircraft too.... 19 seater jets where you can see out of the pilots window if you´re cloase enough to the front.... no terrorism here !!!!)

40 minutes later we were back on our plane.... however.... our route had changed !

We were now flying into another airport .... Reyes.... some 45 miles to the North of Rurre.

Ok.... beggers can´t be choosers and we were told there would be a transfer bus waiting for us to take us into Rurre when we arrived.

The flight was nice and the views of the Mountains, rising and then suddenly descending into a lush green rain forest below with winding rivers all over, were fantastic.

Unfortunately... the windows of the plane were scratched to feck.... so no photo opportunities!

We could however watch through the pilots window as we started to descend into the Jungle..... Literally !

All I could see was trees.... more trees.... and we were heading right for these trees !!

Where the feck was the runway ???

Was there a runway ???

As we got closer to the trees (we could now see the birds perched in their top branches !)

I was starting to worry a bit !

However, suddenly from within all this vegetation... a dusty track appeared... people were scattering across the "runway" as we got a little closer

(we reckon it must have been a short cut for the locals or something!)

We bumped down suddenly (narrowly missing a few "slower" locals) on the dirt and the brakes were applied!!

We´d made it....

where exactly......

we weren´t too sure....

however we were alive and in the jungle !

They opened the door and were greated with our first (of many) gasps of Hot, Humid, sticky Air.

Definately different from La Paz that´s for sure!

We got out at some small little building and watched as the pilots unloaded the plane and then reloaded it for the departing flight... no waiting around here !

The airplane took off again and we were left (alone) on the side of the runway...

in a small shack of a building...

waiting for a bus ????

Hmmmmmmmm.....

welcome to Bolivia I kept reminding myself!

It´ll just be a bit delayed I thought.

Bus.... what bus ???

There were no representatives of the airline in this shack and we were stood with 5 other gringos.. wondering if there actually was a bus.... whether we were actually in Reyes (Bolivia still for that matter!) or whether we´d just been flown in as replaments for some other unfortunate gringos whose ordeal as hostages would finally be over.... It was our shift !

After an hour or so.... Remember.... this is Bolivia.... a rickety old chicken bus rambled down the dusty track towards us....

Whayhae....

it was heading to Rurre and we all jumped on !

An hour later and minus my eye balls... they´d been wrenched out of their sockets by some rather well placed and what seemed some lackluster attempts at trying to avoid them by our driver (who was all of 16)....

we made it to Rurre !!!

Welcome to the Jungle !

The town itself was small and rather sleepy in nature.

We grabbed our "new" Lonely planet for Bolivia and looked up where to stay...

We decided on Hotel Beni as the LP told us it was "very Nice"

How wrong could a comment ever be !!!

Small... dingy.... not secure at all.... HORRIBLE !!!

We stayed there that night as it was getting late and even though downstairs the Karaoke was thumping till 6 am.... we all slept like babies that night.....

Welcome back to sea Level !!!

It was New Years eve.... first priority... find a new hostel !

We walked around and finally found an oasis in the Jungle Town...

Hotel Santa Ana was literally two blocks away from the centre of town.... however, it was light years ahead of the other "accomodation options as recommended in our "New" Lonely Planet Guide book" (this was something that would reoccur many times here in Bolivia !!!)

Feckin Lonely Planet !!!

Anyway, We got a double room with En Suite... Kieran got a nice single room.... they were clean.... had clean sheets... the bathrooms were clean... there were hammocks loosely arranged around the entire hostel !!! What a great place and we immediately booked in for 2 nights!

Mwy Tranquilo !!!

Ok.... we put on our glad rags and headed into town for the New Years Partying!

Options...options.... Local bar full of (really really) pissed guys having a good time and singing Karaoke.... or Gringo bar... more expensive, full of gringos and the Wanna-Be Locals ???

We opted for the gringo bar and headed to the Mosquito bar.

Cocktails and booze was consumed in equal measures and before long we decided to head to the Monkey bar (another gringo haunt) as there seemed to be more people there.

Having dodged a few of our own personal firework displays (as put on by the local kids who seemed to revel in throwing firecrackers at the gringos) we made it to the relative safety of the Mosquito bar.

Here we settled in for the night and ordered a bottle of Champagne.... it was Hogmanay after all !!!

This almost broke the bank at 100 Bolivianos (7 pounds sterling !)

I was going to enjoy my stay in Bolivia.... I could definately say that !

We were handed our some grain by the owner of the bar.... this was a local tradition in Bolivia where at the start of the New Year you were to throw the grain up in the air to ask for a good harvest year to come.... well why not !??

With Champagne in one hand and our grain in the other we all huddled together on the Dance floor as the count down started.... Ocho... Siete... Seis... Cinco.................. Uno..... Faliz Ano Nuevo !!!!

Balloons were dropped from a big bag above us... the Champagne cork was duely popped and I managed to soak nearly everyone else (or so it seemed)... we were all jumping around and wishing everyone happy New Year.... and then sparklers were handed out (where as .... like we were all 5 years old again... we proceeded to right our names in the air using our new found fireworks

It was the end of a Great 2007 for Steph an I.

We´ve travelled to 4 continents... sailed between 2 of them.... visited some of the most pristine and special places on the planet, seen some fantastic Wildlife

and most importantly....

We´re still loving travelling and the whole experience!

One of the most important decisions we´ve made... and I wouldn´t change it for the world !

We´d arranged to go and see the Tiwanaku (or Tiahuanaco) ruins as part of a day trip as it was only 35 Bolivianos for the full day trip with an English Guide (that works out about 3 pounds each !)

It was an 8am start (which wasn´t too bad) and by 9am (Bolivian Time remember !!!) we were heading off towards the ruins.

The People tht originally occupied the site were reckoned to have been there about 600BC, however, it´s not too clear what happened to them before the Ayamara and then the Inca Peoples decided to populate the site.

The Temple itself was added to around 700AD, before a "natural Phenomenon" (aka El Nino and an Large Tidal wave.... so they reckon from Titikaka) wiped the site out in what they reckon was about 1200AD (how they knew this I´ll never know !!!)

Anyway, the reason they can tell that it was definately impacted by something was that most of the monuments that stood upright were laid flat, however, they were quite a few meters away from where they were supposed to be as if they´d been lifted up and washed some way down stream .... so to speak.

The whole site was covered by silt and mud and so most of the formations and statues (although the Gold and relics etc. were pillaged by the Spanish and some religious zelots.... makes a change eh ???? !) were left relatively intact and in their final resting place (until we found them that was and put them back wher we thought they were!)

We pulled up to the site some 2 hours later where we found two museums side by side. We payed our entrance fee to our guide (who reliably informed us he´d buy the tickets) and went in.

The first was the most interesting with lots of pots and atrifacts from the site (those that remained) whilst in the second there seemed to be only one thing.... a massive megalith of Pacha Mama !

It was a great statue and used to be situated in the middle of La Paz, before it was returned to the Museum and even had a few gun shot marks on it from various revolutions!

The strange thing though, yet another annoying thing about Museums down here, was that we weren´t allowed to take photgraphs of it!

Why not ????

Not because it damaged the monolith or anything so logical, but again, because it´s copyright was to be maintained by the museum...... far be it that tourists would take their photgraphs around the world and publicise the little known artefact....

Oh no.......

Nooo......

"we can sell postcards"

of the site if tourists aren´t allowed to take pictures !!!!!

I give in.....really I do !!!!!

Anyway, it´s a cool monolith and I´d love to be able to attach a picture of it to show you......!

Having been led around the museums we were then led around the actual site itself.

One of the interesting facts was that the site itself used to be right alongside the shoreline of Lake Titikaka some 3000 years earlier and now the Lake itself was some 4 kilometres away !!!

We were led around the Akapana Pyramid, which consisted of seven distinct levels up to the top level (where we were assured lay the remains of a pool where it was reckoned water was used to reflect the stars in the sky by the Incas)

Unfortunately.... much again like many sites in South America.... we couldn´t go walk up to go and see this pool as the Guide had a plan and we were encouraged to follow him to the next site.... The Temple Subterranio!

Before we got there though we were given a good bit of information as in the Lower corner of the Akapana Pyramid a Jaguar Skull and entire skeleton had recently been discovered.

The Skeleton was found in one of the Irrigration tunnels on the side of the building as if the Animal had been trying to hide, or something, in the hole to try and survive whatever the terrible disaster was that did, unfortunately, kill it!

Very interesting indeed we thought as this indicated either the animal was tame or that they roamed around the temples !!!

Also it reaffirmed the idea that a natural disaster took place at the site some years earlier.

The Subterranian Temple hadn´t been dscovered by anyone prior to it´s excavation.

Hence the Religious zealots hadn´t had a chance to damage and destroy the Human faces that encircled a great statue of Viracocha..... one of the Original and most interesting of the Inca Gods (well.... ???)

An interesting fact about the heads that adorn the entire outer walls of the temple is that they are all of different "looking" peoples ! Honest.... some white, some black, some red.... large lips, small thin lips, one type of hat, a different type of Nose etc. etc.

And every one was different !

As if to indicate that either the original peoples of the site were a hotch potch of peoples from around the world or the people that were there were aware of these different looking people.... cool !

The Statue of Viracocha was of a white man (yep..... white) and he has a clearly visible beard on the statue (which was said to be Red !) The Stone is red, however, they reckoned it was painted white... well his face was originally anyway?

So.... once again....... somewhere else in the world.... a God Turned up some 3000 years ago.... cultured the local population and the guy was white, had a beard and once again... dissappeared on a "boat" only to return again before another Natural disaster happens !!!

Anyway, We were then shown the Kalasasaya (where Evo Morales was Inaugarated) and the sun gate through which the Rising sun can be seen on the Summer Solstice.

Then we walked over to the far side of the site where we were allowed to view the Sun gate for a few minutes.

This was one of the monuments that was thought to have been horizontal on the main site, however, had been washed downstream some distance (and broken in two I might add!) by whatever "natural" disaster had happened some years earlier. The Archaeologists had relocated the monument to where they thought it was located.... however.... to me it looked out of place where they´d put it!

It was then that we were invited to go to a touristic restaurant for lunch.

We declined and headed off to Puma Punka ! (We´d made sandwiches already as we´re getting used to this side of the tours by now !!!)

I´d read up about Puma Punka earlier and had wanted to specifically detour to see the smaller site on the South West of the main site.

The rock formations and sculptures were said to be very different from those at the main site and we weren´t dissapointed.

There are hundreds of broken rocks and sculptures at the smaller site, however, they all seem very different and the shapes, patterns and geometrical shapes on them all are very different indeed.

On the large rocks on the floor seemed to be indentations ready to "plug" in other rocks with which they would build the temples or walls or whatever.... it was really fascinating. Also there were other rocks with small holes running along them where the wholes were exactly equidistant from one another !! Again.... different and cool !

Not to mention the Doorways, Triangles and other assorted shapes littered around the site !

I loved it !

Anyway, we hung around the site waiting for our bus back and (in True Bolivian fashion) the bus turned up some 20 minutes late ready to take us back to La Paz.

We arrived back in La Paz around 4pm and thanked our Guide (by asking him to provide us with our tickets as we wanted them as a momento Which he finally did !) and then we headed back to the hotel ready to catch our flights to the Jungle the following day !

We reached La Paz on a coach, in the centre at friday afternoon rush hour! Not just any friday but the friday before christmas!!! It took ages just to get into the city centre as the traffic was pure madness! The bus dropped us off quite a way from the Wild Rover Hostal, where we had reservations, and a taxi didn´t think it was worth his while to take us there so we walked with backpacks an´ all!

I was completely shattered when we arrived at the hostal to find Jackie (the lady who we met on the inca trail) looking shattered too. Apparently having no sleep due to the bar being next door to her dorm.... no if you run a hostal with a bar and fairly young clientel and a middle aged lady wants a dorm room it would probably make more sense to place them in a room away from the bar!!!????

We later learned that there was no place away from the bar, that the bar was extremely loud with a crowd of people who obviously thought seeing La Paz consisted of frequenting the irish owned hostal bar every night, all night!!!

Alan, myself and Cullen (who had travelled with us on the bus to La Paz) were a bit hungry so found a british owned curry house....... it did live up to expectations...... just like anywhere in Bradford yum yum!!!

Unfortunately I felt really faint after the meal and needed Alan to lean on while we walked back to the hostal..... all very dramatic ha ha..... I even needed a break half way at the interesting Plaza Pedro D Murillo (home of El Presidente.... and the flags were flying)!!

The beds at the hostal were super comfy and above the bar noise we managed to get a few winks!

Alan, though, had been up all night with the runs.... bless!

Well breakfast was quiet due to everyone still recovering in bed. Jackie informed that someone had rolled her over in the wee hours of the morning to check who she was and Cullen informed us of sick all over the bathroom near his room!!! Jesus..... you would think we were on a school trip!

We decided to walk the whole of La Paz 3 times over to find a nice hostal big enough for four of us.... Alan, Cullen, myself and Keiran (who was joining us christmas eve)! We managed to find a hotel with a self contained flat at the top with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen and a living room.... perfecto!

Later on we headed out to the cinema to watch whatever film was in English. Back at Wild Rover the bar didn´t look inviting so we headed off to bed!

This time it was my turn to be sitting on the toilet all night, we had obviously eaten something really bad!!!!!!

The next morning we left Wild Rotter (whoops sorry Rover) and headed to our penthouse, among the market madness!!!

After getting a few christmas provisions Alan and myself were shattered.... whatever bug we had had taken its toll so we just flopped on the sofa and watched numerous christmas specials of friends!!!!!

At 8am Keiran woke us all up on christmas eve so after a brief catch up over a cuppa we hit the market stalls!!! The whole of the surrounding streets were market stalls, it was complete chaos but great fun.

We managed to get some great bargains, vegetables, fruit, christmas cards with llamas on (class) and even a christmas tree complete with lights (Steph had to have one)!!! Although Alan and myself still felt weak we were having great fun (inbetween running to the toilet) bartering and chatting with local vendors. Alan even managed to buy a whole chicken, intact with head, feet and heart yummo!!!

Later on that evening we had a meal at Sol y Luna before some drinks at Olivers travels. The owner was completely pissed and a bit of a prat but we had a few drinks to bring in christmas!!!

Merry Christmas.......... Feliz Navidad

Alan got straight to work with the christmas dinner while the rest of us sat around drinking and talking.

We pulled the table out of the kitchen and placed it in the living room before decorating it with christmas napkins and party hats!!! Along with the christmas tree it all looked very festive!

Well the meal was fantastic, salad and brushetta for starters, chicken and the works for the main and the sweet was put to the side for later as we were stuffed ha ha!!! Well done Alan (and Cullen for the salad and sweet)!!!!

Alan and myself phoned everyone at home to wish them merry christmas........ it was so nice to chat to everyone (some had been on the booze already ha ha....... but it was 9pmish so they had a good excuse ha ha)!

Then Mark (an ozzie we met in Huaraz) turned up with some friends and a cake that said merry xmas Alan and Steph. I thought this was really sweet! So we had lots to drink and some cake!!!

Alan and myself exchanged christmas presents....... I received quality streets and Alan got pringles!!!!!!!!!

I managed to drink three bottles of wine all to myself while Alan had few beers........ we all enjoyed ourselves, complete with party hats!!!!

Merry Christmas!!!!!!!!

Boxing day....... Alan watched football all morning while I had a bit of a lie in...... not due to a hangover ofcourse ha ha!!!

We did the typical thing on boxing day, had left overs, watched tv and ate chocolates!

Later on we managed to drag ourselves out to sol y luna for dinner to say goodbye to Cullen who was leaving the next day!

A few more drinks were had.......... well it was christmas!!!