Around the World in as long as it takes.

So, if you were to have asked me where the Queen Charlotte Islands were before I'd come to Canada.... not a clue!

However, Since we'd been in Prince Rupert a few people had raved about this clump of islands over the water even further West than we were!

They also housed the only remaining (and original) Haida Totem Poles and an original Haida Meeting House. This sounded good so we'd arrange with Steve and Nat to pop over on the ferry and stay in a backpackers in Queen Charlotte City (city being perhaps one of the most loosely used terms in this instance I've seen for a while!)

So we arrived at the ferry terminal and jumped on the ferry. We were foot passengers so we checked in our bags and jumped on board. The sea was flat calm and as we pulled out the mist started to clear to reveal a crystal blue sky. It was beautiful and as we sailed down the islands en route to existing the Canadian Western Islands to head out to sea we were all sat outside, basking in the sunshine and admiring the beautiful scenery.

The ferry was relatively cheap so even I was happy (at this point !)

It got even better as we moved along the channels and into Open water with a couple of humpbacks spotted in the distance. Then there were porpoises in the seas around the ship and then an announcement that a minke whale was spotted on the Starboard side of the ship.

Everyone rushed to see the whale, however, I hung back to see what was happening on the Port Side... Steph could always call me if she spotted it.

I then spotted some fins in the distance... larger fins however and as we got closer it was apparent it was a small pod of Killer Whales. Now what they were doing isn't clear, however, they were heading in the same direction as the Minke whale, so I reckon they might have been testing it's fitness (Hunting it!)

Anyway, the ship soon put a stop to that (albeit unknown to the captain) who never mentioned on the tannoy that there were Orca's on the Port Side of the ship and the Orca's were on a collision course!

The Orca's Slowed as the ship approached and then swam down along the port side of the ship. Then after we'd passed them they disappeared off .... heading in the same direction as the Minke!

So an eventful ferry and beautiful one was had by all and then after two hours sailing in open waters we saw the Charlottes and sailed into Skidegate (a small town just south of where we were staying)

We jumped into a taxi once our bags had arrived and went to the Hostel. It was a nice hostel, even if the Lady Owner was a bit Abrupt to start off with, and there were apparently two scientists in the Hostel with us.

We’d been informed of this as the Two Scientists seemed to be very precious to the lady, so much so, that she’d reiterated to both Steph and Steve when they’d booked the rooms that there was DEFINITELY no drinking to be had late into the night!

She seemed worried that the scientists would be woken up by the rabble caused by Foreign these Backpackers!

It turned out that the scientists were Science Teachers… and they’d be there for only a couple of more days anyway…so not too sure what the lady Hostel owner was going on about.

Anyway, the hostel was nice, however, there was only room enough for one of the couples….. ! Damn !!!

As a result one couple was to be in another hotel (literally next door) for one night, so having seen the double in the hotel and the rather nicer room in the Hotel, we drew lots.

Now this is where I started to remember why I don’t travel too much with other couples!

Ok… so we drew lots (i.e. the toss of a coin) and we won… so Steph and I wanted to stay in the nice room. This was fine with Steve, however, Natalie wasn’t too happy with this and made a little stink about it so much so that Steph and I stayed in the hostel for the night in the end! Not worth the bother!

Anyway, after a good nights sleep and having chatted to another couple in the hostel called Shannon and Jamie, we woke up and went to pick the hire car up.

The only way to get around the Charlottes is to either hire a car… or hitch a ride. Since there were 4 of us… it was much better value if we hired a car. So we did !

The Hire car was cheap and between the four of us a good deal for 3 days of transport around the North Island (The only one with roads on!)

We packed up and, having stopped briefly in Skidegate to watch a guy carving a totem pole from scratch, headed North.

We passed Many a Bald Eagle (they seem as common as Crows over here) on the waters edge as we drove North, however, we’d heard they had bears on the Charlottes and all of us were secretly hoping we’d spot one (from the car of course!)

Then in the distance, Natalie spotted a bear crossing the road!

It was massive ! Apparently, the black bears in the charlottes are the largest in Canada as they’re the only bear on the charlottes and therefore the top predator!!

This guy was huge and Steve rolled up quietly next to him to try and get some piccies!

He wasn’t bothered about us and having changed his mind about three times as to which direction to turn off the road, he wandered into the brush!

Our first Black Bear! And he was a big bugger too !!!

We headed up to Masset (at the far North of the Island and the largest Town on the islands… although not a city like the metropolis of Queen Charlotte City!!!) for supplies. Unfortunately, I thought we’d be able to get an MSR gas canister for my little cooker… however… they were all out! We’d have to rely on the good old method of cooking on a fire! Steve and Nat had no cooking stuff and only the one Sleeping bag… so it was up to Steph and I to provide the cooking implements!

OK… on to the camp site!

We camped on Agate Beach and having set up camp, managed to get the fire lit and up before it started to drizzle! Luckily we’d put the fire pit under some trees so it was fairly well sheltered!

After a few beers, some pasta and sauce and chatting with Shannon and Jamie (who’d camped just down from us also!) we hit the tent for an uncomfortable nights sleep!

When we woke it wasn’t raining, however, Steve had the fire up and running again and we cooked some eggs for brekkie.

We headed back into Masset for some supplies (No gas!) and then on the way back.. it started to rain….and rain…..and rain!

We stood underneath the bushes for about another 4 hours!

Luckily the fire remained lit so cooking was still a possibility!

Shannon and Jamie came over at 4pm as the rain had lifted slightly and offered to give us a lift to Tow Hill Summit! Steve and Nat couldn’t be bother and Steph and I got the distinct feeling Natalie wasn’t exactly an outdoors sort of person (poor Steve !)

It stopped raining when we got there so we walked up to the lookout and then descended to the Blow Holes Where Jamie decided to try out his waterproofs! Very Funny!

We returned to the camp and Steve and Nat hadn’t really moved at all, so we quickly cooked up some tea and then we all wondered down to Jamie and Shannon’s camp (as they had a tarpaulin and it had started to rain…again!

We left at 8:30 am to get the hire car back before 12pm (which meant we’d hired it for only 2 days in total and worked out cheaper!)

We beeped goodbye to Shannon and Jamie as we drove past (who were still in their beds nursing a hangover I’d assume like the rest of us!)

We drove down to Queen Charlotte City and dropped the car off.

Steph and I fancied getting down to the South Island, however, it was expensive and so we decided to finally book a boat trip down to one of the less Southerly islands where we could still see Haidi Totems (if not the Gwaai Haanas UNESCO Site which was further south… and some $400 dollars Each to get to!)

The Next Day, we said our goodbyes to Steve and Nat and got ready for our trip… it had been cancelled ! Damn! We spent the day at the Haida Museum in Skidegate and that night had a few drinks with our new Hostel Mates (Stephanie and Claudia)

Claudia had only just met us, but having been chatting down by the docks with a old sailor had arranged for a short tour on his Tug Boat for the four of us! It was nice and gave us a different idea of how Queen Charlotte Culture was.

We paid him with a 6 pack of beer… of which we all had one and said our goodbyes.. as simple as that! Cool Older Guy!

Anyway, the next day we headed for the Ferry. Darius (the guy who looked after the hostel and worked for the other lady) who’d befriended Nadia (another girl in the hostel and was on our ferry) gave us all a lift down to the ferry for free, which was cool again… albeit I had to ride in the back of the truck which was reserved for the his dog normally !

Anyway, we made the ferry and chatted to Nadia for most of the journey back over to the Mainland.

This time the weather was considerably worse… a four meter swell, so the ferry had to detour North a bit to compensate… and there was no sitting outside this time !

We made it back and Christie came and picked us up from the hostel again which was nice. We were back in a nice hostel and we had our double room. We unpacked, went for a quick drink and some tea and then crashed out.

Now… where to next ?